Reticulated Python Care Sheet!
Normal Reticulated python
Reticulated Pythons are an active and inquisitive member of the Pythonidae family. They originate from south east Asia and come in various natural colours as well as a variety of mutations (morphs). Now thanks to smaller locales, more and more people are able to own this amazing species, here at Enigma Reptiles we work with the Smaller locales.
Scientific Name: Python reticulatus
Life Span: 20-30 years.
Adult Size: Mainlands 15-20ft, although larger is possible, it is rare.
Dwarfs/small locales 5-15ft
Reticulated pythons can vary a lot in size but the size of the parents is a good indicator to what size the hatchling has the potential to reach with a good feeding schedule.
Housing: As hatchlings Reticulated pythons can be kept in 21-84ltr R.U.Bs (Really Useful Boxes) because they are a fast growing species Really Useful Boxes are ideal. Reticulated pythons love climbing while they are small so having enough height for a branch or two is ideal.
When your Reticulated python has reached 4ft, we personally would recommend moving your snake in to a 4ft or 5ftx2ftx2ft wooden vivarium. Depending on the adult size of your snake you will need a different size vivarium, the general rule to follow is length + width of the enclosure = length of snake, so a 6ftx2ftx2ft vivarium can house a 8ft snake. Although for mainlands many people recommend 8ftx4ftx3ft for adults, which following the rule above could house a 12ft Snake, so please think about adult housing and make sure you can provide it especially if considering a mainland Reticulated python.
Temperature: Hot spot 32-33°C/88-92°F. Cool end 22°C/72°F.
Heating: While your Reticulated python is still a hatchling and it is housed in a Really Useful Box enclosure, it is best to use a heat mat with a on/off or mat thermostat which has been set and montiored by a digital thermometer.
Once your Reticulated python moves into its vivarium, you can heat it by one of two ways. One of these ways is by a heat bulb. This will produce heat and emit light into the enclosure but will require that you place a bulb guard over the bulb to prevent your Reticulated python potentially burning itself. The bulb will also need to be on a dimming stat and set using a digital thermometer and monitored this way.
The problem with having a heat bulb however, is that it produces light and it could cause a disturbance for the snake and yourself if you sleep in the same room.
The second way you could heat your vivarium is by using a ceramic bulb. These do not emit light and so cannot cause a disturbance at night, however, they can reach extreme temperatures and will melt normal bulb holders and for that reason a ceramic bulb holder must be used. The ceramic bulb will also need a ceramic bulb guard, this will leave a large enough gap between the bulb and the guard which will prevent your snake from burning itself. You will need a pulse proportional thermostat for your ceramic bulb to control the temperature, this should be set up by using a digital thermometer to which you can then monitor the temperatures with.
Heating: While your Reticulated python is still a hatchling and it is housed in a Really Useful Box enclosure, it is best to use a heat mat with a on/off or mat thermostat which has been set and montiored by a digital thermometer.
Once your Reticulated python moves into its vivarium, you can heat it by one of two ways. One of these ways is by a heat bulb. This will produce heat and emit light into the enclosure but will require that you place a bulb guard over the bulb to prevent your Reticulated python potentially burning itself. The bulb will also need to be on a dimming stat and set using a digital thermometer and monitored this way.
The problem with having a heat bulb however, is that it produces light and it could cause a disturbance for the snake and yourself if you sleep in the same room.
The second way you could heat your vivarium is by using a ceramic bulb. These do not emit light and so cannot cause a disturbance at night, however, they can reach extreme temperatures and will melt normal bulb holders and for that reason a ceramic bulb holder must be used. The ceramic bulb will also need a ceramic bulb guard, this will leave a large enough gap between the bulb and the guard which will prevent your snake from burning itself. You will need a pulse proportional thermostat for your ceramic bulb to control the temperature, this should be set up by using a digital thermometer to which you can then monitor the temperatures with.
Enclosure decoration: A fun part to Snake keeping is decorating enclosures, for our Reticulated pythons we use a substrate mixed up of coir, orchid bark, cypress mulch and then scatter leaves on top. We only keep Dwarf Reticulated pythons which are under 8ft so we provide branches for our snakes to climb on, larger reticulated pythons would perhaps be better with a secure platform. Cork bark tubes make great hides for snakes although they can be awkward to get your snake out of! To finish off the enclosure nicely you can use some reptile safe fake plants and this will provide a great naturalistic setup.
Although Reticulated pythons can also be kept on tissue or newspaper, with a hide and water dish in a basic setup.
Reticulated pythons need to have humidity around 60-70% normally a large water dish will provide this but a little spray of water may also be needed if your snake starts to experience stuck/retained sheds.
Feeding: These snakes are very food orientated and would happily be dustbins for uneaten food, however this isn't healthy or ideal for them. Over feeding or power feeding can lead to health issues so it isn't worth it.
We feed our hatchlings every 7 days on rat pups and slowly move up in size once the meal stops leaving a small bump in their body, when they reach around 4ft we then move to feeding them every 8-14 days. Adult feeding schedules can vary depending on how large the snake is and what size prey they are feeding on, our adults get fed every 2-3 weeks but for larger snakes feeding on large rabbits ect... then monthly should be ok, as long as your snake looks a healthly size and weight. Remember Reticulated pythons are a slim snake, an over weight snake normally has a permentant bulge around the vent area.
It is advised that you wait 24-48 hours before handling your Snake after feeding.
Although Reticulated pythons can also be kept on tissue or newspaper, with a hide and water dish in a basic setup.
Reticulated pythons need to have humidity around 60-70% normally a large water dish will provide this but a little spray of water may also be needed if your snake starts to experience stuck/retained sheds.
Feeding: These snakes are very food orientated and would happily be dustbins for uneaten food, however this isn't healthy or ideal for them. Over feeding or power feeding can lead to health issues so it isn't worth it.
We feed our hatchlings every 7 days on rat pups and slowly move up in size once the meal stops leaving a small bump in their body, when they reach around 4ft we then move to feeding them every 8-14 days. Adult feeding schedules can vary depending on how large the snake is and what size prey they are feeding on, our adults get fed every 2-3 weeks but for larger snakes feeding on large rabbits ect... then monthly should be ok, as long as your snake looks a healthly size and weight. Remember Reticulated pythons are a slim snake, an over weight snake normally has a permentant bulge around the vent area.
It is advised that you wait 24-48 hours before handling your Snake after feeding.
Shedding: Reticulated pythons grow quickly, as hatchlings they shed regularly like most species. The first sign that your snake is going in to shed is normally when its natural colours start to become dull, after a couple of days you may notice blue/cloudy eyes. Your Reticulated python will appear to go back to normal before shedding 3-7 days later. Stuck/retained sheds can mean that the humidity is too low, so a little spray of water in the enclosure when the snake is due a shed will help prevent this.
Enigma Reptiles thoughts on keeping Reticulated pythons: Reticulated pythons are great fun to keep, although a very food orientated snake. They are active, inquisitive and strong-willed, ours will always be nosey to see what we are doing within the room but they are a fun snake to handle, please note that we have never dealt with an adult over 8ft.